Climbing Shoes Review

OK, so I'm a little crazy. I suddenly feel like reviewing my rock climbing shoes. I've had several pairs, and I just received a new pair yesterday. I'm excited about the new pair. In the meantime, see what I have to say about 5.10 Ascent, 5.10 Galileo, La Sportive Miura, Evolv Defy, and 5.10 Spire. Then, when they're good and worn in, I'll review my brand new pair of Montrail Wasabi.

I got into climbing in October 2003. That was when I purchased my fateful first pair. I'm sure most people commit the same feau pax, and so did I. I bought them way too big, thinking they should be sized similar to street shoes; way wrong.

My first pair of shoes was a pair of 5.10 Spires. They're the famous purple lace-ups from 5.10. I recall that this was a good pair to learn on, but they suffered from two problems, one of which was my fault. They were too big, so I could used my toes very well. I didn't realize that was a problem until I got a bit better and actually needed my toes for something. The second problem is that they're shaped a bit more like a street shoe. Instead of having a really well-pointed toe, they curve up a bit in the front to be comfortable to wear. That also limits the use of their toes. I recall the rubber being really good, though, since they lasted me a long time and then I still got to give them to a friend to use even longer.

My second pair was a pair of velcro 5.10 Ascent. They have some little suction cup-looking things on the heels, although a recent redesign has changed that. I got these shoes a bit closer to the right size, but they were still a little big. These shoes have almost everything going for them, and one problem. The problem is that they may have been a little wide for my feet, so my feet moved inside them a little. However, that may have been because they were a little big for me. On the good side, the rubber is really good. They have velcro, so they're quick to get in and out of. They're really comfortable. The rubber is also really sticky, so they smear well. All in all, I was very happy with these shoes.

My third pair have been the best pair; La Sportive Miuras. They have quick laces, so they're easy enough to get in and out of. They have a super pointy toe, so I can get my toes into just about anything. The rubber is really sticky and pretty durable, so the first sole lasted a long time, and they helped me climb really well. They aren't the most comfortable, but I bought them really small, over-compensating for my two previous purchases. I love these shoes. I resoled them, and I still use them, though the resoles now have a hole, so they're not long for the world. They also cost a bit ($130), but you get major quality out of this price. They're technical, durable shoes.

I have really conflicting feelings about my fourth pair; Evolv Defys. Of the shoes, they are the most comfortable and are really fantastic for technical climbing. They have really pointy toes and really sticky rubber. They have velcro, so I can get in and out of them quickly. I love these shoes. The drawback to them, which is pretty significant, is that the rubber just doesn't last very long. The rubber wore out really quickly. I have developed holes in both toes after about 5 months. If I could put La Sportiva rubber on these shoes, they would be the best. I intend to do that when I get them resoled. On the bright side, they're cheap. At $75, they are a really good pair of shoes.

Then we have my current pair; 5.10 Galileos. I think I like these shoes the least of all of my shoes. Initially, the rubber is not sticky at all. Once they're worn in a bit, they're decently sticky. The rubber wears out a bit quickly, too. The bonus is that they're also velcro shoes, so they'll go on and come off quickly. But, they cost way too much for that to be the main selling point. Steer clear of these.

Stay tuned for my review of the Montrail Wasabis...
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